Knitwear Glossary
Your Knitwear Dictionary – A comprehensive glossary of knitwear terms to help you better understand the stitches, fabrics, and techniques that bring our designs to life.
Acetate Fabric:
Acetate fabric, also known as cellulose acetate, is a semi-synthetic material made from natural wood pulp combined with synthetic fibers. It is lightweight, has a smooth and silky texture, and resists shrinking and wrinkling, making it a popular choice for luxurious apparel and linings.
Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) Cotton:
BCI cotton is produced under the Better Cotton Initiative, a non-profit organization that promotes sustainable cotton farming. It focuses on reducing environmental impact, improving working conditions for farmers, and ensuring a sustainable future for the cotton industry.
Cashmere:
Cashmere is a fine, soft fiber obtained from the undercoat of the Kashmir goat. It belongs to the category of specialty hair fibers and is highly valued for its warmth, lightweight feel, and luxurious texture. Unlike wool, cashmere is exceptionally soft and less prone to itchiness.
Cashmere Gauge:
Gauge refers to the number of stitches or rows per inch in knitted fabric, indicating the density of the knit. A higher gauge results in a finer, more structured fabric, while a lower gauge creates a looser, more open knit. Common cashmere gauges include:
• 7GG (7-gauge): An open, breathable knit with a mesh-like texture.
• 9GG (9-gauge): A balanced knit, offering softness and warmth.
• 12GG (12-gauge): A fine, tight knit that gives cashmere a smooth, refined appearance.
Cashmere Grade:
Cashmere is categorized into grades based on fiber thickness and quality:
• Grade A: The finest and softest cashmere, with fibers less than 19 microns in diameter. Margaret O’Leary only uses Grade A cashmere to ensure the highest quality knit.
• Grade B: Slightly coarser than Grade A, with fibers measuring between 19-20 microns.
• Grade C: The coarsest grade, with fibers between 20-21 microns, making it less soft.
Cashmere Ply:
Ply refers to the number of cashmere strands twisted together to create yarn:
• Single-ply: More delicate and less durable.
• 2-ply: Stronger and softer, offering increased warmth.
• 4-ply and above: Denser, more insulating, and richer in texture. Margaret O’Leary often uses 2-6 ply cashmere for optimal quality and durability.
Cotton Lawn Fabric:
Lawn fabric is a fine, lightweight cotton with a high thread count, originating from Laon, France. Known for its crisp texture, silky finish, and breathable nature, it is commonly used for summer clothing and delicate garments.
GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard):
GOTS is the leading global certification for organic textiles. It ensures that fabrics are made using organic fibers while adhering to strict environmental and social criteria throughout production, from raw material harvesting to finished product labeling.
Mercerized Cotton:
Mercerization is a treatment that enhances cotton’s luster, strength, and dye absorption. Mercerized cotton has a shinier appearance, richer color, and improved resistance to shrinkage and pilling. It is also easier to clean, releasing stains and odors more effectively.
Pima Cotton:
Pima cotton is an ultra-soft fabric made from extra-long staple (ELS) cotton fibers, typically longer than 34mm. Derived from the Gossypium barbadense plant, this cotton is known for its exceptional softness, durability, and resistance to pilling. It is primarily grown in tropical regions and is one of the highest-quality cotton varieties available.
Tie-Dye:
Tie-dye is a fabric-dyeing technique that creates unique, multi-colored patterns through folding, twisting, or crumpling fabric before applying dye. Margaret O’Leary’s tie-dye t-shirts are hand-dyed in Los Angeles, ensuring that no two pieces are exactly alike.
Tubular Cotton Yarn:
Tubular cotton yarn is a type of yarn with a hollow polyester core surrounded by a cotton outer layer. The cotton provides durability and softness, while the polyester core adds structure and loft, making the yarn lightweight, chunky, and comfortable. It is also hypoallergenic and suitable for sensitive skin.